Fashion Week, Fall 2011.

Adam Kimmel + Carhartt Celebration.

When an invitation arrived for a celebration of the collaboration between Adam Kimmel, the American-born and Italian-studied menswear designer, and Carhartt, the workwear manufacturers, into the night I went. Read more at Paper Magazine.

Rad Hourani.

It’s perhaps difficult to distinguish between the genderless and the unisexual, let alone to render this distinction in clothes. But therein lies the work of designer Rad Hourani, who describes this concept as “gender agnosticism” — as in, there are genders, but not as we know them or wear them. Read more at Paper Magazine.

VMan Party.

It wouldn’t be a #NYFW (for those of you not on Twitter, that’s “New York Fashion Week”) without a Visionaire Magazine party, and this season, they teamed up with not-yet-opened Mondrian Soho to celebrate the 21st Issue of VMan. Read more at Paper Magazine.

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HUFFINGTON POST: The Eloquence of Peasants.

Several days ago, as the Twittersphere burgeoned with news of the situation in Egypt, an apocryphal piece of trivia from my undergraduate years — that I had double majored in Near Eastern Studies with a focus on Egyptology — came into play. For those expecting any tweets pertinent to these events, the protests come about 3,500 years too late, as my area of expertise pretty much ended with the reign of Ramses XI. Still, I tweeted my insight by way of a hieroglyphic excerpt from the “The Shipwrecked Sailor,” an Egyptian tale of a mariner lost at sea. Read more at The Huffington Post.

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L’Ergot Bleu, Part III.


Story Martin Marks     Illustration Jim Gaylord
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Read Part I §  Read Part II

IT TOOK TWENTY SMURFS to carry the giant lead weight attached to Brainy’s foot and Papa Smurf’s stretcher out to the drawbridge outside of Gargamel’s castle. Harmony Smurf started tapping out a drum roll on his drums. Several of the Smurfs ran forward, but those who did were immediately placed in shackles and marched back to the village, to await trial for High Smurf Treason, a new legal term amongst the villagers. After some loud bangs, the front door to the castle slammed open. The villagers watched as Gargamel, his bald head glistening in the sun and his potato-sack overshirt swaying in the breeze, went over to examine the package at the end of the drawbridge. The villagers ran and hid in the bushes, waiting. There was a tiny yelling, almost indiscernible from the whistle of the breeze through the forest. A giant smile erupted across Gargamel’s face as he lifted the weight up, brought it into his castle, and shut the door.

“But we’ll never know for certain if they’re dead,” Poet Smurf said to Smurfette.

“The only way we’ll know if they’re truly gone,” Smurfette said, “is if their spells stop working and everything returns to normal. In the meantime, I’m the Papa.”

In Gargamel’s laboratory, Brainy and Papa begged for mercy, saying that they’d deliver up the rest of the village if they were spared. “I’ll do anything!” Papa Smurf screamed. “Anything!”

“I’ve learned my lesson from countless years of trying to catch you Smurfs,” Gargamel said in his shrill voice. Gargamel, as vassal lord for the neighboring town, was a vicious landowner, wealthy enough until the wars started to the North and government tithing plundered his entire stock of gold. In his old age, Gargamel had grown fixated on the idea that the only thing that could restore his wealth and his food supply, for both him and his cat Azrael, was an indefinite supply of the little blue creatures that lived by his castle. “Two Smurfs in the hand is worth more than five-hundred in the bush.” He continued sharpening his meat cleaver. Continue reading

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L’Ergot Bleu, Part II.


Story Martin Marks     Illustration Jim Gaylord
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Read Part I

THE HARVEST FEAST was a grand celebration of everything Smurf. The villagers, forgetting the aches and pains of the past weeks spent in the fields, frenziedly prepared for the evening. Vanity scrubbed himself and liberally applied a lapis makeup all over his body, while Poet and Harmony coordinated their efforts in composing a special song for the occasion. For several days, Cook had been preparing acorn stew, rye bread, and boiled radishes. Wild Smurf had even come from the forest staggering under the weight of three baby Cornish Game hens, enough to feed the entire village several times over. Even though the village commonly believed that Greedy was malingering, Cook had Papa Smurf put two guards outside of Greedy’s toadstool just to make sure he didn’t consume all of the acorn stew by himself.

The tables were set up in a U-shape in the village square, covered in white sheets and decorated with giant tallow candles. The villagers strung the toadstools with captured fireflies, and the entire village glowed as if the morning dew had continued into nightfall. After Papa said the nightly Smurf benediction the villagers tucked into the feast, slurping at their soup, gobbling down the rye bread, and tearing at the three giant hens with their little blue hands. In between gulps of elderberry juice, singing and dancing started at the center of the tables. The villagers swayed back and forth to songs of working the fields and farming the harvest, and in the great joyous commotion, nobody except Brainy Smurf seemed to notice the two empty places at the center table.

Brainy had spent many hours arranging and bartering for the seat next to Smurfette. He eyed the bare wooden chair while Vanity continued on about how good he looked. “Does the bread taste funny to anyone?” Vanity asked when he was done bestowing compliments upon himself. Continue reading

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L’Ergot Bleu, Part I.


Story Martin Marks     Illustration Jim Gaylord
1

CLAVICEPS PURPURAE GROW during the wet springtime, dotting the summer crop with blackened, curved kernels – virtually indistinguishable from the usual sun-baked seeds appearing in every year’s harvest. A letter to the French Royal Academie des Sciences first documented these grains in 1676. The next year, John Ray, a British naturalist, made a brief observation of the same phenomenon.

But the villagers of a small town in Languedoc finished their summer harvest without knowledge of such things.  They picked their grain unaware that Philip de Valois had ignored Edward of England’s claim to the French throne, or that outnumbered English bowmen in Crecy had just defeated Philip VI’s far superior army, or that the Hundred Years War raged within their borders.

For the most part, the village didn’t know about the outside world. They didn’t need to. Every family had a home, and every home had a front yard. They lived in what could be called a benign oligarchy, a decentralized community where every member had their function and purpose, with no member outranking another. For reasons lost to time, most of the population was male. Some have hypothesized that homocentric fraternal ordering regulated the community. However, what few females there were in the community still served as equals. Male and female villagers alike farmed the communal fields in the morning and took to pastimes – singing, dancing, and other assorted merriments – in the afternoon. What little organizational ranking they had was led by a village elder. All the villagers trusted this village elder to make the larger decisions for the benefit of the whole. The villagers gave him a diminutive honorific as a title, roughly translating to the word “Papa.” Though he was leader, there was no confiscation of property, no forcible labor. The lazy could remain lazy and still get fed; in fact, the villagers used these traits for the nomenclature of their members. It was the combination of the American dream and the Communist ideal, some four centuries before America and some six centuries before Communism, and some three centuries before the blackened grains would be discovered in John Ray’s laboratory.

The village’s domiciles were arranged in no particular order; they sprouted out at random, blending naturally into the landscape. Each house was more or less the same, though some natural variations appeared in the roof colors of each abode. And had the village not been located in fourteenth century Languedoc France, one could quite easily have mistaken the place for a socialist Levittown, save for the fact that the buildings stood less than twenty centimeters tall and were constructed of toadstools.

Indeed, the villagers themselves had certain physical characteristics that made them unique; all the villagers had cerulean skin, and the tallest – called “Hefty” on account of his physical abilities – stood only eleven centimeters tall. Because of these physical differences, the villagers chose an honorific for the entire village, the word itself creeping into the common vocabulary to describe all things good and true. They called themselves Smurfs. Continue reading

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The 10,000 Illegal Aliens in my Abdomen.

AHH, SPRING IS IN THE AIR. Students all around Hopkins are doing typical Hopkins things – playing Frisbee, working out at the new A.C., reuniting with friends, drinking heavily – confident that the upcoming semester will bring both good times and hard work. Little did I know that my first few weeks of the new semester would be spent on the can with a few thousand unwanted visitors living inside of me.

That’s right, I’ll admit it. Sometime while I was in Ecuador, whether from swimming in freshwater lakes in the jungle or from drinks with ice cubes in them, I accidentally picked up some parasites. I first started to notice something was wrong when I got back to Hopkins in January. Before I had gone to Ecuador, I usually had about two meals a day and prided myself in going to the bathroom very sparingly . By the time I got back to Hopkins this spring, I found it necessary to put reading material in the bathroom because of the increased frequency of bathroom usage.

At first, this reading material was just old copies of The New YorkerEntertainment Weekly and Maxim. As the problem got worse, though, it soon became necessary to keep sizable novels within arms reach of the can. When volumes of Proust and Nabakov began to compete in number with toilet-paper rolls, I realized that perhaps I had a little problem, or many little worm-shaped problems, as the case may be. Continue reading

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Facebook Group: The Transspeciated Canine Society.

Zooey “Zoetrope” Rouss – Canine, Bovine, Simian, Friend.

FACEBOOK GROUP: The Transspeciated Canine Society

CATEGORY: Common Interest – Pets & Animals

DESCRIPTION: Prof. Shannan E. Rouss, BA, MFA (Founder, Director; Chief Lepidopterist) and Prof. Martin J. Marks, BA, MA, MFA; (Co-Director; Head Marine Biologist) started this group as part of their efforts to study and isolate the impact of Transspeciated Canine Disorder (TCD), a terrible affliction that affects nearly one out of every 500,000,000 dogs worldwide.

“In the short time that I’ve lived with Zooey,” says Prof. Marks, “this poor doggie’s been alternating between the delusions that she’s a spider monkey, a carrier pigeon, an Irish wolfhound, a porpoise, an aardvark, a honeybee, a bull shark, a Shetland pony, and a boa constrictor.”

Prof. Rouss, under the visible emotional strain that affects the families of TCD sufferers, pumps her fist into the air, onto which Zooey perches (she now thinks she’s a falcon), before tearfully declaring, “You don’t think it’s real until it happens to you, until this terrible disease strikes one of those closest to you. Oh fate most cru-el! Oh unhappy world!” Continue reading

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THE NEW YORKER: E-Mail Auto-Response.

 

FROM THE OCTOBER 25, 2010 issue of The New Yorker, a Shouts & Murmurs entitled “E-Mail Auto-Response.” You’ll find it on newsstands and in mailboxes this week; it may also be seen in all of its internety goodness here.

Source: The New Yorker.

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PAPER: A Night in the Life of Hanuk.

BY THE TIME I join Hanuk for dinner at the Standard Grill, the main course has already been cleared, and the evening, along with its accompanying consumption of libations, is well underway. On this night, the Korean-born photographer and former fashion designer is at a booth with two unlikely candidates in his sphere of fashionables: attorney Eric Richman, whom Hanuk has affectionately nicknamed “EricRichman.com,” and Richman’s friend, a Vespa-riding Internet mogul. The conversation turns to agricultural development in downtown Brooklyn. “Farming concrete?” Hanuk asks with a mischievous grin. “What’s that? This is why I drink!” And with that, he turns to the passing waiter. “I’ll have another drink, please.” Read more at Paper Magazine.

Source: Paper Magazine

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Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2011.

A Brooding Band of Outsiders.

With the dark and beige that has cast its pall over most of the Spring Summer 2011 collections, a wonderful thing it is to step into Scott Sternberg‘s world. From the bleachers to the beaches to the boarding school dormitory, Saturday’s Band of Outsiders presentation was a study in brooding pensiveness. Read more at Paper Magazine.

Antonio Azzuolo’s Strongest Collection Yet.

Spring/Summer certainly did seem to be the season for Antonio Azzuolo and his a.a. Collection. Over the past several years, the gifted designer, previously of Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label, Hermés, and Kenzo, has sewn out a niche for himself in the upper echelons of menswear. Read more at Paper Magazine.

Michael Bastian’s Mercenary Style.

A militaristic thread seems to be running through all the clothes that menswear designer Michael Bastian so expertly makes. At yesterday’s show, Bastian left the relative safety of last spring’s gaucho mountaintops for the warmer, more aquatic feel of this season’s collection. Read more at Paper Magazine.

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Charlie Chaplin sings… Something.

MOST FAMOUS FOR HIS CHARACTER the Little Tramp, Charlie Chaplin believed that “talking” films were just a passing fad. The 1936 comedy classic Modern Times was one of the last silent films, and the only time we hear the Little Tramp’s voice as he, at the behest of the film’s heroine, an orphan played by Chaplin’s wife Paulette Goddard, performs a song and dance number to stall the cops. The performance works, but don’t try to understand the lyrics – they’re a nonsensical pastiche of several languages, revealing exactly how unimportant words sometimes are.

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Hopkins Über Alles.

THOUGH IT WAS SOCRATES who said “Know thyself,” I say, as my advice to the incoming class, “Know the history of thy university.” While still uncertain whether or not “thine” was the correct pronoun for that last sentence, I can say with certainty that I’m extremely uncertain as to the history of our University.

From the countless admissions brochures, campus tours and wild nights at Phi Psi, the task of learning the history of one’s university can often get confusing. Therefore, I’ve decided to give you this gift — a handy guide to the inception of our great University, from the moment when Mommy Hopkins decided she loved Daddy Hopkins very much, and started to rub up against… well, that’s another column. Continue reading

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HUFFINGTON POST: Lauren Conrad Interviews Joan of Arc.

AFTER A SIX SEASON RUN, MTV’s The Hills sadly came to a close last night. We can’t believe it’s only been two short years since the star – perhaps you’ve heard of her? – Lauren Conrad stepped off that plane at Charles de Gaulle Airport, wearing a chic oversized beige trench coat loosely hanging from her shoulders and casually knotted round the front – for whom does this not evoke the image of a young Coco Chanel in sailor’s pea coat? – her silken blonde hair capped with a heavy knit cream beret – Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde, or the Prince song, had he the foresight not to sing about a garish color like raspberry – Lauren Conrad’s strikingly well-shaped legs hugged by tan and white striped stockings – Wizard of Oz, when the farbissiner gets the house dropped on her – but offsetting these neutrals – to remind: trench coat, stockings, beret – with a pair of purple boots – Nancy Sinatra, but ankle length. Read More at The Huffington Post.

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Edith Wharton and Henry James Get Into a Car…

 

Wharton and James (back seat) on a motoring tour in 1904.

 

THERE ARE THOSE OF US who spent a not insignificant amount of time in grad school reading the works of Henry James. We trolled through The Ambassadors; we wondered when the golden bowl would finally break, and whether, through the thick of the prose, we had missed the breaking itself; we searched for classmates on the basement level of the library, at hours previously designated for sleep and/or pub-going, all in an attempt to find out exactly what Maisie knew, who married whom, and why these facts were important.

As it turns out, we can thank our lucky stars that we never went on a motoring tour with him, got hopelessly lost, and subsequently had to stop and ask for directions. This did, however, happen to Edith Wharton during one of her trips through England. Nothing can add to her account of this Monty Pythonesque exchange, which she later recounted in her autobiography, A Backward Glance, as it’s transcribed below: Continue reading

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Minnie the Moocher.

MAX FLEISCHER PRESENTS Minnie the Moocher (1932), featuring Betty Boop and Bimbo, with Cab Calloway and his Orchestra.

Walt Disney this is not. Max Fleischer, born in Poland and raised in New York City, was generally uninterested in the pastoral aesthetic of round-eared, anthropomorphic mice schoonering paddleboats down the countryside. Made only four years after Steamboat Willie, Fleischer’s work contained references to immigration (the parents in the beginning of the cartoon), drug use (Calloway’s sung reference to Smoky the Cokie), alcoholism (the skeletons drinking tainted Prohibition-era hooch, then wilting and dying), and, of course, sexuality (Betty the flapper, herself).

Check out the Walrus Ghost in the cave – in actuality, a second appearance by Cab Calloway, whose dance was captured on film and then traced over by the animators. The process, called Rotoscoping, was invented by Fleischer.

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