Fashion Week, Fall/Winter 2012.

Tim Coppens.

You’ve got to hand it to Belgian-born designer Tim Coppens. With his background in sportswear, this Ecco Domani Fashion Fund award-winner knows how to build a collection, and not just because of the architecture so omnipresent in his latest work. Here’s a rundown of the reasons why he’s one of our favorites. Read more at Paper magazine.

NUMBER:Lab.

It was all in the sporty details at yesterday’s runway show of Luis Fernandez’s NUMBER:Lab collection. This sportswear-inspired gear had a not-your-average-trip-to-the-gym feel, with a mining theme that was brought home with models that walked onto the runway carrying pickaxes. Here’s a list of the top three sartorial elements that’ll help you brave the elements come Fall/Winter 2012. Read more at Paper magazine.

Rag & Bone.

The post-industrial, post-Edwardian punk of Marcus Wainright and David Neville’s imagination was on full display earlier this afternoon as they presented their Rag & Bone F/W 2012 Collection at Pier 57. For some reason, as the models marched to the strains of Thom Yorke’s dark tunes, winding through the pier’s cavernous interior, past steel girders and beyond narrow shafts of sunlight, I kept on thinking of the film There Will Be Blood, and not just because of the long boots that were doing the marching. Here’s a breakdown of what led to this line of sartorial thinking. Read more at Paper magazine.

N. Hoolywood.

Last night, in a sepulchral wood-paneled room at La Venue, Japanese designer Daisuke Obana presented his N.Hoolywood F/W 2012 collection. The show was set to the sound of haunting sea chanteys, a curious choice, which I had the opportunity to ask Mr. Obana about backstage. “They’re old fishing songs,” he said through a translator, “A mix of eight of them, which I found at a record shop in San Francisco.” Read more at Paper magazine.

Billy Reid.

Oh, but to spend a few brief moments in the charm and sweetness and eminent dappertude–a word I’ve just invented especially for this occasion–of Billy Reid’s F/W 2012 collection, shown last night at Eyebeam Studio. The audience, many of them with DogFish beer in hand, couldn’t help but be entranced by the Florence (that would be Alabama, not Italy) based designer’s latest work. Read more at Paper magazine.

Robert Geller.

Robert Geller is quite possibly one of the most original thinkers in American menswear, and is rapidly turning into one of my favorites. His F/W 2012 show at Pier 59 marked a continuation of the post-industrial themes he explored last season, though he did so not on the whitewashed pavement of his spring show, but rather, with his feet on the earthen ground. Read more at Paper magazine.

Simon Spurr.

Renowned menswear designer Simon Spurr showed his F/W 2012 collection yesterday at Milk Studios. With a mind tending towards the traditions of Savile Row and a hand crafting some of the finer wares in the sartoria-sphere, here’s a breakdown — inspired by one of our favorite recent films — of what separated Mr. Spurr’s collection from the rest of the pack. Read more at Paper magazine.

Michael Bastian.

Judging from yesterday’s show at Exit Art, it looks like Michael Bastian has certainly matured. This was, of course, when the fog lifted from the runway of his F/W 2012 collection–a very literal fog, generated by a very real fog machine, that had me wiping my eyeglasses in case I’d forgotten to clean the lenses, a constant #nyfw between-show battle for the bespectacled set. Read more at Paper magazine.

Lacoste.

Yesterday, the Studio at Lincoln Center was transformed, inside and out, into a wintertime wonderland as Lacoste showed its Fall/Winter 2012 collection. As the music started–based on the score from Close Encounters of the Third Kind–foam snow let the audience know that they were no longer on the tennis courts of France. Read more at Paper magazine.

Steven Alan.

With the weather finally feeling Februaryish this early (early) first morning of New York Fashion Week, I thought I’d be tending towards the coats of Steven Alan’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Instead, I found myself drawn to the zigzagged lines of a handsome shawl-collared cardigan-coat, which was layered under a khaki jacket. Read more at Paper magazine.

GANT.

Michael Bastian, in creating the F/W 2012 collection for GANT, titled, “The Lucky Ones,” had to look no further than his own memories. For yesterday’s presentation, Exit Art was transformed into a very stylish tableau vivant of his mid-1980s college days in Boston, replete with street lamps, a motor scooter, a boxing ring, and even snow — generated by the snow machine that dusted the runway of his eponymous main collection several days ago. Read more at Paper magazine.

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Filed under A Few Things I have Written Elsewhere//, Paper Magazine.

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